Checking into Jamala Wildlife Lodge, I’m immediately transported into an African-inspired wonderland — a world away from the everyday yet just a lion’s roar from Canberra’s city centre. Here, authentic African artefacts, artworks and stunning décor create a luxurious backdrop to the wildlife adventures to come.

I’m greeted by the friendliest of staff, who organise for my luggage to be sent to my accommodation — Jungle Bungalow 3 — and give me time to choose three courses from tonight’s sumptuous dinner menu, before leading me through to the uShaka Lodge living area, where guests can mingle and rest. Here, we indulged in a delicious high tea laid out for today’s arrivals — an array of gourmet sliders, savoury tartlets, finger sandwiches, sweet treats, platters of delectable fresh fruit and more, plus your choice of hot and cold beverages.

Outside, a family of four black-and-white colobus monkeys rest and play in their spacious habitat beyond the expanse of windows. To our delight, adorable three-month-old baby Amara ventures from mum Halle’s lap for a bit of rough-and-tumble with big sister Aida, who was born a year earlier — the Zoo’s breeding program for this species clearly proving successful! Dad, Colin, basks in the sun nearby.  Inside the lodge, tropical fish and leopard sharks swim past in the large aquarium tank.

Before heading to my bungalow, I’m given a sneak peek of some of the other accommodation offerings. uShaka Lodge is home to seven guest rooms and suites, a pool, spa, covered terrace and lush gardens. Downstairs is the Rainforest Cave where dinner and breakfast are served, and another terrace where guests gather for pre-dinner drinks (and lunch for multiple-night stays). We inspected the gorgeous Lemur Room, which offers a ringside view of the Ring-Tailed Lemurs at play and panoramic views over the Zoo and beyond.

Next, we ventured into the Zoo aboard a small electric bus to visit one of the six Giraffe Treehouse suites, where guests have the opportunity to feed two of the Zoo’s resident giraffes, Skye and Khamisi, from the balcony. The three treehouses each contain two separate suites that can be linked upon request.

We then headed to Jungle Bungalow 3 in the heart of the zoo, where three cheetah brothers — Asani, Viking and Zambi — reside just beyond the floor-to-ceiling glass separating my space from theirs. The bungalow’s clever design wraps around the cheetahs’ den so guests can see these gorgeous big cats from anywhere — the plush sofas in the living area, the ultra-comfy king bed or the freestanding double tub in the elegant bathroom. An exciting new animal habitat is in development on the other side and the new occupants will be visible from the bungalow balcony.

Close encounters

Jamala guests have the option to book a variety of animal encounters at a discounted rate. We experienced the Zoo’s extraordinary Meet a Cheetah Encounter, going inside their habitat alongside the keepers who closely watch the big cats’ behaviour to ensure they remain at ease. After several minutes of patrolling their space, one of the brothers, Asani, lay on the grass and allowed us to pat firmly along his spine, indicating his contentment by purring loudly — until he’d had enough and walked away. The smallest of the big cats, cheetahs weigh around 48kg, about 10 times that of a domestic cat — and I reckon their remarkable purr is around 10 times louder. It was one of the most memorable animal encounters of my life. Bliss!

The Meet a Meerkat Encounter is another immersive experience that takes guests inside the animals’ habitat, accompanied by a trusted keeper. Much to our delight, Sergei and two of his three sons hopped on our lap blanket and ate mealworm larvae from our upturned palms, even staying on our laps for pats after the food ran out.

The marvellous Giraffe Encounter took us to a platform beside the habitat of breeding pair Shaba and Mzungu, and their daughter, Thembe. (Another of the Zoo’s successful breeding programs.) We held tight to branches as the gentle yet powerful females used their dexterous, long, blue tongues to pull off leaves or to grasp the fresh lettuce leaves on offer, their astonishingly beautiful faces within arm’s reach. Being so close to these towering giants makes me marvel at the diversity and beauty of nature’s creations.

Onto the Malayan Sun Bear Encounter, where we remained outside their habitat to feed kibble to a male named Arataki, and to Otay, a female that was stolen from her mother as a cub and rescued from the restaurant trade by Free the Bears. So, while Otay had a sad start in life, she is now living her best years with Arataki at the Zoo. Free the Bears is a small charity that works with government partners to rescue, research and protect vulnerable bear species and is supported by the National Zoo and Aquarium.

Dining

After an adventure-packed afternoon of close encounters of the creature kind, it was time to relax in the luxurious bungalow before dressing (neat casual) for dinner. Treehouse and bungalow guests are chauffeured to and from dinner at the lodge. Pre-dinner drinks flowed on the terrace from 6:15pm as guests mingled and keepers informed us about the Zoo’s resident male spotted hyenas, Pinduli and Zuberi, right next door. Fresh meat bones are used to entice the two white lions, Jake and Mischka, to visit the terrace and restaurant viewing areas while guests dine and marvel at these magnificent creatures just beyond the glass.

Yet dining here is not just about the extraordinary setting; there’s an even stronger focus on the food. As well as a slew of accommodation awards at the ACT, national and global levels, Jamala has won multiple restaurant awards.

My first course choice was the vegetarian canapes featuring five delights such as scrumptious san choy bow, beetroot and asparagus tart with goats cheese, and grilled halloumi with plum salsa. My dining companions’ canape selections included Pacific oyster with Mombasa butter (“best oysters ever”), Wagyu beef sosatie, Peking duck, Kingfish with Ponzu dressing, and African chicken bobotie. 

For mains, the medium-rare rack of lamb (“so tender you could cut it with a spoon”) was perfectly complemented by a delicious array of vegetables.

Dessert also impressed. The stunning white chocolate sphere filled with berries and chocolate mousse tasted as wonderful as it looked, the berries balancing the creamy richness.

Each course is accompanied by your choice of premium wines or other beverages, followed by after-dinner coffee or teas.

After waking early to observe the cheetah trio sleep and stir, I took a short, self-guided walk through the Zoo before the 7am breakfast session. Cheerful staff took my coffee order immediately while I chose from the a la carte menu — an appetising shakshuka — and perused the smorgasbord of luscious fruits, breakfast jars and baked goods.

At 8:15am, another knowledgeable keeper led me on the optional guided morning tour for Jamala guests, sharing facts about the Zoo’s precious residents – from Sumatran tigers and white rhinos, to koalas, penguins, pygmy marmosets (the world’s smallest monkey) and more.

It sure was a wild(life) ride — and a fitting end to a most memorable, magical staycation.

All the conservation, breeding and education programs at the National Zoo and Aquarium are supported by income generated by Jamala Wildlife Lodge and animal encounters, so guests are not only doing a good thing for themselves, they’re contributing to the welfare of the animals and at-risk species.

Note: Julie Samaras stayed as a guest of Jamala Wildlife Lodge in Jungle Bungalow 3 from Thursday 17 to Friday 18 April 2025.

To stay overnight at Jamala, visit jamalawildlifelodge.com.au or call 02 6287 8444.

For more information about the National Zoo & Aquarium, visit nationalzoo.com.au