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Friday, June 28, 2024

Dining review: The Inn at Edgars

A local drinking hole and eatery, Edgars draws a crowd from further than just its Lyneham neighbours, serving as a long-standing go-to for Sunday lunch or a weeknight meal. Upstairs is its slightly more refined sibling – The Inn, home to Canberra’s only Asado Grill.

The softly lit eatery offers a number of tables in different sections, all of them welcoming and comfortable. The easy-to-be-in setting feeds into The Inn’s ethos of simple yet flavour-first cuisine which is evident in its lovingly crafted menu. CD was lucky enough to be invited to sample the offerings ourselves.

From start to finish, the evening is what you hope for each time you enter a restaurant; the service is fantastic and delivered by people who want to be there and the food is impeccable.

Huge prawns cooked to perfection.

Starting with a round of cocktails, the Pornstar Martini and Kiwi Sour, stood out as the favourites of the selected drinks. A blend of sweet, tart and a hint of fun, a taste of what was in store for our meal.

In the warm main dining room, we were treated to a tasting menu chosen by executive chef Wayne Alger, starting with a selection of single-serve delights. The oyster with mezcal & lime was a standout of the water creature-based dishes, a tart topping on a fresh oyster – perfect. The grilled prawns with toum and chilli were enormous, juicy and had a delightful kick to them, while the duck skewers were complemented by slices of fresh mandarin.

Next up, the small plates – dumplings, bread and ceviche, delicious! Snapper mixed with coconut, lemongrass and pickled radish was the star, with the radish complimenting the softness of the fish. Pumpkin and tofu dumplings were soft, juicy and scrumptious. While house-made, warm and doughy flatbread dipped in a creamy labneh, rose and pistachio provided a palette cleanser ahead of the main.

The heavy hitter of the evening was the 1.2kg slow-roasted lamb shoulder, which was so tender that the bone slid straight out. Every bite of the succulent lamb melted in your mouth, while the fatty bits were extra flavoursome. The accompanying red pepper and sumac onions added a freshness to the rich dish.

The succulent, tender lamb is a most try at The Inn.

On the side, a delightfully sharp champagne vinaigrette was doused on leaves with soft herbs. One of the hardest things to turn down on any menu – the side chip also accompanied the lamb, crunchy shoestrings to top off the luxe main course.

The Inn’s Pumpkin Pie is a slice of heaven.

Although we were already bursting at the seams from a decadent meal, there is always room for dessert – a second stomach we have been told. The Inn, in some of our diner’s opinions, saved the best for last. A take on traditional American campfire food, the dark chocolate and almond biscuit s’more was an indulgent treat for the chocolate lover.

However, the showstopper, the pumpkin pie served with pecan ice cream, has been a topic of discussion in the CD office since our visit. The pie base was not flaky or crunchy but just right and the filling played off the natural sweetness of pumpkin and complimented it with autumn-inspired spices. As a dessert lover, this is hands down the best finishing course I have had in Canberra in the past year.

If you are looking for a warming and welcoming setting to enjoy a meal this winter (or any time of the year, really) then you can’t go past the ambience, flavours and service of The Inn at Edgars. Highly recommended.

Dine at The Inn at Edgars Tuesday – Saturday from 5pm til late; edgarsinn.com.au/theinn

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