Straight from the food memoir of Pakistani storyteller, Sumayya Usmani, here are two recipes to try for curry for the soul, and the perfect chai companion.

Pakistani prawn karahi

Serves 4 | Prep 10 mins | 15-20 mins

• 2 Tbsp ghee (or 1 Tbsp unsalted butter and 1 Tbsp sunflower oil)
• 1 heaped tsp cumin seeds
• 1/2 tsp nigella seeds
• 1/2 tsp carom seeds (ajwain) – optional
• 1cm ginger, finely grated
• 4 large ripe tomatoes, coarsely grated, skins discarded
• 2 Tbsp concentrated tomato puree (tomato paste)
• 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
• 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder (or other chilli powder or paprika)
• Salt, to taste
• 450g shelled, deveined fresh raw prawns

To garnish

• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 2.5cm ginger, cut into fine strips
• 2 Tbsp chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves
• 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

Place a wok or frying pan over medium-high heat and add the ghee. When it is hot, add the cumin, nigella and carom seeds (if using) and fry until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Next add the ginger and fry for 10–15 seconds, until fragrant, then stir in the tomatoes. Lower the heat slightly, add a splash of water and keep stirring until it starts to simmer. Add the tomato puree, turmeric, chilli powder and salt.

Keep cooking until the sauce thickens and the oil begins to rise to the surface, about 7–9 minutes. Once this happens, add the prawns and cook, stirring, until the prawns turn pink, about 3–4 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the prawns, or they will go rubbery.

Turn the heat off, add the garnishes and cover, then leave to infuse for a minute or so before serving.

Hot tip: This is best made with fresh raw prawns, rather than already cooked ones.

Banana and fennel seed Gulgulay doughnuts

Makes 12 | Prep 20 mins | 10-15 mins

• 50g (1/3 cup) plain flour
• 3–4 green cardamom pods, cracked open, seeds extracted and ground – you need 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
• 1/4 tsp fennel seeds, ground
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 2 Tbsp icing sugar, plus 2 Tbsp extra for decoration
• 1 1/2 overripe bananas, mashed
• 2 Tbsp whole (full cream) milk or non-dairy alternative
• 500ml (2 cups) sunflower oil

Begin by sifting the flour, cardamom, fennel, bicarbonate of soda and icing sugar into a bowl. Stir gently with a fork to combine.

Add the mashed banana and, while mixing with the fork, slowly add just enough milk to make a very stiff and thick batter (you may not need it all). Leave the batter to rest for 10 minutes. Give it that time to get fluffy.

Heat the oil in a wok or heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When it is hot, add teaspoonfuls of the batter and cook, keeping them moving so they don’t stick together, until they rise to the top, about 5–7 minutes.

Drain on paper towels, then dust with the extra icing sugar and serve hot with a cup of chai.

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