Without having to step a foot out of Canberra, you can travel across the world visiting the creatures that reside at the National Zoo and Aquarium. An experience like no other, Jamala Wildlife Lodge sees visitors spend the night with animals big and small, a Disneyland for the animal lover.
Entering the reception area in the uShaka Lodge echoes the feeling of walking into the home of an old friend, warm, welcoming and comforting. Perhaps the feeling of being at home comes from the fact that the lodge was once the residence of zoo owners Richard and Maureen Tindale.
In 1998, the Canberra couple purchased an aquarium and a native wildlife park. With dreams of owning a big cat sanctuary, they set about building a zoological facility that could house its inhabitants as comfortably as possible. Once the space was ready, the Tindale’s searched for animals who had spent their days in circuses and private collections and offered them a place for retirement and the life they deserved.
Over the following decades, the zoo has grown and gained a reputation as a leading ethical animal facility in Australia. True animal lovers, the Tindale family is still at the core, with a residence on location and members working among the staff.
As part of their love for animals, the zoo takes part in breeding programs and raises funds for numerous conservational efforts, donating over $1 million in just the last three years.
The addition of Jamala Wildlife Lodge was launched in 2014, as a lavish way for visitors to help further the vision of the zoo.
Blending opulence and gourmet food with a hint of education and a whole lot of animals, the award-winning accommodation is worth the hype. Guests can choose to stay in the uShaka Lodge, the Giraffe Treehouses or one of the Jungle Bungalows that bunks you with tigers, cheetahs, lions or bears.
CD’s entertainment editor Jessica Cordwell was invited to spend the night at Jamala Wildlife Lodge. As an avid animal lover and fan of the zoo, it was a dream come true.
The tour
Upstairs in the belly of the lodge, we were struck by the incredible attention to detail; the furnishing, adornments and artworks were amazing. Taking you right to the heart of Africa, the pieces have been collected by the owners over many years. Antiques and one-of-a-kind works have been gathered during trips to Africa, while other pieces have been carved to emulate animals who live/d at the zoo.
One wall opens to a large tank as mesmerising sharks and fish circle their enclosure; it would be easy to lose an afternoon watching the show. Turning around, you are met by a family of colobus monkeys; mum, dad and a young baby. Dad lazed about, unbothered by an audience, while Mum fed the baby before the pair engaged in a playful a game of cat and mouse.
Our tour guide for the afternoon, Megan, greeted us and we started by exploring the accommodation options, starting with the lemur room – the wheelchair-accessible room. Walking in, again we noticed the immaculate decoration and attention to detail, nothing had been overlooked or thrown in without careful consideration. We made our way to a family-friendly quarter, the meerkat room, fitted with two large bedrooms, and a spacious bathroom.
We stopped by the Giraffe Treehouses where we met the deer and llamas who reside in the forecourt. The treehouse was light, open and beautifully designed, opening onto a private balcony where you can tempt giraffes with an afternoon treat.
Afternoon tea is served to all guests shortly after arrival at the uShaka lodge, a delightful offering of small morsels. You can choose from sliders, finger sandwiches, quiches and a selection of sweets like mini cakes, fruit and chocolate-filled donuts. A tasty introduction to the luxury you are about to experience.
Megan returned to the lodge to continue our tour, this time getting up close with a number of the residents. Stepping out of the uShaka Lodge, we were introduced to a family of meerkats, inside the enclosure we took a seat, and a towel was placed on our laps, you don’t want to get this snack on your clothes. Larvae are spread out, as the tiny creatures jump up to feast, during this time you can pet their furry bodies. It is impossible not to love the meerkat, the sweet creatures are bursting with personality and confidence with visitors in their enclosure, a must-do experience.
Saying goodbye to the meerkat family, we jumped into a cart and Megan drove us around the zoo, telling us about the animal residence. Friendly, bubbly and knowledgeable, Megan was an absolute pleasure and a great companion for the afternoon. Stopping for another incredible experience we were given a quick induction on how to behave around unrestrained big cats!
We entered the enclosure of three cheetah brothers, Asani, Zambi and Viking. A truly striking animal, the lean cats pranced around their enclosure as we made our way up the assigned path. One of the three boys was happy to lie down for a petting session, down on one knee, we were allowed to stroke his soft fur. The loud and deep purr of a cheetah is soothing. Touching a free-to-roam big cat is a magical experience and is highly recommended.
Our next visit was to one of the most loved African animals, the giraffes. A tub of branches awaited us, which Shaba noticed as we approached. He stretched his seemingly never-ending neck over the barrier to help himself to some leaves. On the raised platform, we were invited to hold the branches out. You have to hold on tight, Shaba is powerful and keen for his treat. Being this close to the gentle creature you have time to notice more than his neck, you can appreciate the long eyelashes, the beauty of his marking and gain an insight into his personality.
Our final encounter was feeding the zoo’s heavyweight Jake. Nearing 200kg, the white lion is a spectacular creature. Megan called Jake and showed him the tub of meat and the fierce predator didn’t want to budge, content with his sunny spot. After some more cajoling, Mischka, Jake’s sister, made her way over. Unfortunately, she is on a bit of a diet and wasn’t allowed a treat. Prowling along the enclosure line, you could see the sheer size of her muscular body, she flopped down, sneezed, and sat by us, an animal at peace in her space.
While this reaction may have been disappointing for some, it was a stand-out moment for us. Not only was it amusing watching Jake’s complete disinterest, but it was great to see that the animals do have the autonomy to choose when they want to be involved in an encounter.
As our busy afternoon of touring and meeting residents came to an end, Megan dropped us off at our room. Walking up the stairs to the bungalow and pushing open the heavy intricately engraved door, the room was stunning.
You enter the room into the lounge area, large glass panels give you a clear, unobstructed view into the tiger enclosure. In the middle of two comfortable couches is the coffee table with a note about the markings of the tiger sisters, Mya and Melati, and how to tell them apart.
At the opposite end of the room stands a four-poster bed draped with hanging mosquito netting, with a wardrobe. Inside a cupboard, a hidden fridge is stocked with drinks and treats. The bathroom is large and bright, equipped with luxury products and amenities. Cosy robes and slippers are provided so you can rest and relax while hanging out with your roomies.
We spent the rest of the afternoon glued to the windows watching the incredible animals roam their enclosure, interact with each other and dip their toes in the water.
The evening
Saying goodbye for now to our spectacular roommates, we made our way back to the lodge for before-dinner drinks. Those staying in the zoo lodgings who don’t want to walk to dinner have the option of catching a bus. We decided to see the animals on the way, following the Jamala signs and taking time to notice the intricate handmade chainsaw carvings along the way.
Drinks are free-flowing at the pre-dinner get-together, choose from a range of wines, beers and Moet Champagne. The Jamala Terrace overlooks the lion enclosures and meets the boundaries of the hyena boys, an arguably overlooked and underappreciated species. Zookeepers threw snacks to Pinduli and Zuberi who eagerly snapped them up before calling the white lion siblings up for their snacks.
Responding to the calls, Jake and Mischka made their way to the entrance of the den and happily accepted the offerings. As their powerful jaws and claws tear through the meat not even a couple of metres from you, it is easy to see why this mighty creature is donned the King of the Jungle.
The Rainforest Cave is set out like a traditional African dining hall with long tables in the center. The cool, dark space is filled with soft tunes, adorned in more incredible fixtures and looks into the lion’s den.
Taking our assigned seats on the long tables, we sat between a couple celebrating their anniversary in the meerkat room and a couple celebrating a birthday in the lion bungalow.
The long tables encouraged social interactions and casual conversations, especially when the food started to arrive. Our server for the evening was the delightful Kristen, she made us feel completely at ease and not silly for asking any questions.
For our entrée, we began with an assortment of canapés, including a Sydney rock oyster with soy mirin, kingfish accompanied by daikon salad, grilled lamb with tabbouleh, crispy pork belly with candied bacon and apple purée, and a traditional African bobotie. The entrée, a complex blend of African-inspired flavors and textures, was the highlight of the meal, with each option prepared flawlessly.
For mains, I ordered the chicken Amahle, a corn-fed chicken breast stuffed with ricotta, pumpkin and spinach, served with potato fondant, butter beans, corn puree and cranberry jus. Scrumptious, the chicken was succulent and flavoursome, the veggies enhanced every bite. The corn puree has remained in my dreams since the meal.
My guest ordered the eye fillet steak served medium rare with grilled prawns, celeriac puree, heirloom carrots, tomato, broccolini and jus. A generous and succulent serving of meat accompanied with some of the biggest prawns I’ve seen, the meal was hearty and rich, perfect after a day of adventuring.
The sweetest course, dessert. I ordered the pavlova with double cream, dragon fruit salsa and mandarin granita. While the pavlova may seem like a simple dessert, it can easily go wrong but the kitchen team at Jamala, nailed it. An island in a sea of fruit, it was the perfect combination of sweet, tart, smooth and crunchy.
My guest chose the triple chocolate and almond dome with ice cream and fresh seasonal berries. An indulgent chocolatey offering complimented by the velvety ice cream and bursts of berries.
Back at our bungalow, we could see one of our big cat roommates asleep near our window, so close you could see her chest rise and fall with each breath, a gentle giant. Next to the nesting area, is the bathroom with a huge tub looking out onto the tiger bedding.
We filled the tub with the complimentary scents and bubbles, hopped in and watched our sleeping companion, the ultimate in relaxation after a big day.
After enjoying the soak, we decided to sleep while our companions did. The bed was like a firm cloud, comfortable and enveloping with enough pillows to avoid any arguments. We woke up at 4am to see if the tiger ladies would be active in the early hours and it was absolutely the right choice.
Witnessing an apex predator less than an arm’s length from you play like a house cat is a surreal and wonderful experience. Wrestling, napping and eating roughage, the animals were completely unbothered by our presence in their space, the opportunity to see them as they are when they are alone, is breathtaking. An opportunity not to be missed for any big cat lover.
Stepping out onto our steps (you can’t walk around the zoo until daybreak), we were able to hear not only our tiger buddies, but many of the animal calls from across the zoo. If you are staying in one of the bungalows or treehouses, set your alarm early and take a moment to enjoy this taste of the wild in the heart of Canberra.
The next day
As the morning light broke, we made our way back to the Rainforest Cave for breakfast. Walking through an empty zoo in the early hours of the morning is like your own private oasis, the animals alert or waking up are completely at ease in their space. Without having to maneuver around crowds of people or the midday heat allows you to truly take in the movements and flashes of personality of the animals.
Highlights of our morning walk include seeing the elusive Tasmanian devils scurry around each other and the leopards prowling, stretching and coming right up to the barrier as if to say good morning.
For breakfast, I ordered the trout omelet with feta instead of goat’s cheese. My guest ordered the big breakfast and we shared a bowl of fresh-cut fruit. A variety of hot and cold drinks were on offer with the wonderful servers happy to assist however they can. Finishing off another delicious meal, we thanked the staff and walked back through the zoo.
There was a scheduled morning tour, we considered the fantastic tour we had the day before and decided to spend the extra morning time in our room with Mya and Melati. If we had gone on the tour, one of the zoo’s expert staff would have walked us through the facility stopping by many enclosures to discuss its residents.
These stops include the aquarium, squirrel monkey, Sumatran tiger, the education aviary, tree kangaroo, native walkthrough, tiger territory, lemurs, African painted dogs, deer (a feeding experience), dingo, cheetah, eland, a rhino encounter, black buck, wapiti, ostrich, zebra and giraffe and siamang.
By opting to remain in the bungalow and spend that bit longer with our girls, we got to see them at their most playful. Jumping and fully immersed in water trying to retrieve a ball, chasing each other throughout the enclosure and using platform poles as scratching posts was the best kind of animal watching.
The service at Jamala goes above and beyond, no one needs to carry their bags back through the zoo as it is all collected before check-out. Just before 11, we bid a final farewell to the majestic creatures we had shared an evening with, took it all in one last time and closed the door.
Guests are welcome to leave their luggage with the reception team and spend the day exploring the parts of the zoo they hadn’t yet made it to.
If you have an animal bucket list, a Canberra bucket list or just a bucket list in general, I highly recommend adding a night at Jamala Wildlife Lodge. From the first moment walking through the uShaka Lodge doors to leaving the next day, the whole experience was, as they say in Swahili, kamili, perfect.
Jessica Cordwell stayed and dined at the Jamala Wildlife Lodge as a guest of the National Zoo and Aquarium.
To find out more or to book your stay at Jamala Wildlife Lodge visit; jamalawildlifelodge.com.au
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