Local couple Vanessa Brettell and Hannah Costello have built a sanctuary in Strathnairn in Café Stepping Stone, and it should be number one on your weekend list.

Like entering another world from the Ginninderry display village, you can easily imagine finding this hidden gem on a road trip through the countryside. It has something for everyone:

• An art café in a historical location? Check.
• Sustainable, vegetarian food that everyone can enjoy? Check.
• Excellent coffee and chai? Check.

Hospitality with a heart? Hard check.

“I think a lot of people in Canberra want to do good and look for businesses or organisations to support,” says co-owner Vanessa.

“Being able to just come out here for breakfast or lunch, and know they’re creating a positive impact… I think that really resonates with a lot of Canberrans.”

Stepping Stone employs migrant and refugee women, preferencing those with low levels of English, no formal qualifications, and a need for flexible hours around school and family responsibilities.

“We really try to target the population who would otherwise struggle to enter the workforce.”

Offering two bites of the feelgood cherry, Stepping Stone runs on a sustainable kitchen that sources local produce, altering its weekly specials around surplus produce from the community garden.

This year, the social enterprise has boosted its staff to 14 women and are slowly and surely handing over the culinary reins, “focusing on getting their own dishes on the menu, as their confidence grows,” says Vanessa.

I ordered their sticky chai (which will have me coming back), layered carrot cake, and the house-favourite burnt butter choc chip cookies. I was looked after by Yasmin, a Hazara woman, who’s coming up on 18 months at Stepping Stone.

“Two years ago, I came to Australia with my mother, sister, and brother, sponsored by my father,” she told me. “When I was one year old, we went from Afghanistan to Pakistan, because it was too dangerous for Hazara people. Except, when we reached Pakistan, it also wasn’t safe.

“My father came here first, seeking asylum, about 13 years ago. He could never come back to Pakistan.”

For over a decade, Yasmin’s father sent home the money he made from work as a cleaner, working at a restaurant, and eventually as an Uber driver, until his family could join him.

“My first thought of Canberra was that there is civility for all humans. All the people are treated the same,” she told me. “It is very peaceful.”

Yasmin found out about Stepping Stone while studying at Navitas, from a Hazara friend working at the café alongside her daughter.

In early 2020, she found herself on the porch of Strathnairn Homestead, worried and scared after a year of fruitless job search.

Fortunately, what she initially loved about Canberra, went tenfold for Stepping Stone. “There are staff here from many different countries, Muslim, non-Muslim, and everyone is treated the same. Everyone is a friend.”

This Ramadan, Stepping Stone hosted an event for Iftar where Yasmin, her mother and sister helped feed 120 members of the community who were breaking fast, to huge success.

“Canberra is good to everyone, but there is room to be better. That’s why this place [Stepping Stone] is special.”

The peacefulness of the café builds on Strathnairn Arts Centre’s three decades of offering Canberrans a quick escape from the rapidly developing city.

The interiors of Stepping Stone display exhibitions that change monthly, a third display room on top of the Woolshed and Gallery. One of the artist’s horses live on the storybook surrounds.

Ten languages total are shared among the staff, including Mon, Thai, Hindi, Urdu, Farsi, Arabic, and Spanish.

The latter is spoken by Vanessa and Hannah, who began the social enterprise in Cartagena, Colombia, before relocating to Vanessa’s hometown during the pandemic.  

The couple met working in a pub in London, both having worked in hospitality since high school.

“It was something we both knew, and it became the tool to create social impact,” says Hannah.

“Colombia we very much did off our own backs, whereas coming back here anyone and everyone has put their hand up to help.”

Their total turnaround of landing in Australia, and opening in Strathnairn, was about eight weeks – to which the couple credits the support of Strathnairn Arts Centre and Mill House Ventures.

“In Canberra, the wealthy people are very wealthy, but there is a lot of inequality and it’s hard to know how to help, particularly when you’re not in those circles,” says Vanessa. “Coming to Stepping Stone can be an easy way that helps so much.”

“In my country, only men and boys work, not women,” says Yasmin. “It is not allowed. But studying, going to college, or having a job, that should be important. It’s good for our health, and our minds.

“When I first came here, I looked everywhere for a job. The first thing they ask is, ‘Do you have experience?’ But since I did not, I was never successful. How can I get experience if you don’t hire me?”

Today, Yasmin is Stepping Stone’s front of house barista, hooking regulars on her coffee.

“This café is important, and there should be more businesses like it in Australia. It’s very special to me.”

She invites Canberrans to experience Stepping Stone for themselves. “Come visit, because our coffee is good,” she smiles. “Very good.”

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