Veer off the Hume Highway just two hours northeast of Canberra to the charming town of Bowral in the beautiful NSW Southern Highlands. In 1820, Governor Macquarie praised the Highlands as redolent of ‘a fine, extensive pleasure ground’ of England; a haven to escape the summer heat and humidity of Sydney decades before beachgoing became popular.
In Bowral’s bustling town centre, heritage buildings, cafés, fashion and homeware boutiques and vintage stores abound, the train station is nearby, and you’ll find lovely old churches dotted along the side streets. We stumbled upon a community market and lunch at the Uniting Church, hosting a stall by the local Men’s Shed, tables laden with homemade jams and baked goods, and a hall filled with craft, preloved books, games and sundry. Away from the traffic is where Bowral retains the delightful village vibe it’s known for.
Where we stayed
Park Proxi Gibraltar Bowral
Around 4km from centre of town, sits Park Proxi Gibraltar Bowral, a sprawling two-storey 77-room hotel that flanks the picturesque 18-hole Gibraltar golf course.
After checking in late afternoon on a sweltering Friday, we took advantage of the indoor pool to cool off before changing for dinner at the hotel’s casual and airy Observatory Restaurant. Our window seats overlooked the beautifully manicured course at sunset, the service was friendly and efficient, and the menu offered a great selection of dishes. Our server, Brooke, recommended the karaage prawns, which were perfectly crispy outside and juicy inside, and the delicious stuffed zucchini flowers for entree; my plus-one enjoyed the tender, fall-off-the-bone lamb shank for main course, and the apple and rhubarb crumble for dessert. The comprehensive wine list includes numerous Southern Highland labels, helping to promote and support the local industry.
After dinner, we were invited to relax with a cocktail in hand at the intimate and cosy Harvey’s Bar, named for legendary TV music maestro Geoff Harvey OAM, who lived in nearby Berrima for many years.
We returned to Observatory for buffet breakfast on Saturday and Sunday mornings, indulging in the array of fresh and stewed fruits, yoghurt, cereals, baked goods and hot foods, tea and coffee (barista coffee available for an extra $5). Enjoy a bird’s eye view of golfers avoiding or landing in the water hazard on the first hole. Fore!
My spacious room featured an enormous continental king bed, large ensuite with dual shower heads, fluffy robes and all the mod cons, plus a balconette with views of the water hazard on the first hole (complete with a little red boat, small fountain and abundant birdlife). It’s blissfully quiet here; there’s no traffic noise apart from the occasional rumble of a passing train in the distance.
This is a hotel fit for royalty – or at least, the King’s representative in Australia. We were in esteemed company during our stay, as among the guests on Friday night were the Governor-General and his wife, who no doubt occupied the best suite in the house.
Park Proxi Gibraltar Bowral, 7 Boronia St, Bowral NSW
Where we ate
Harry’s on Green Lane
You’ll find this enchanting eatery on the quaint lane beside Dirty Janes vintage emporium in Bowral. The vibe is chic European and the décor maximalist; one wall is floor-to-ceiling shelves laden with books and curios, every other wall is covered in gilt-framed artworks, there’s a quirky flamingo lamp in one corner, elephant artefacts above the fireplace. It’s a feast for the eyes – and the food is equally enticing. My roasted spiced cauliflower with pomegranate, hummus and quinoa was a picture on my plate and a party on my palate; likewise, my plus-one’s warm salad of oven roasted vegetables with mixed leaves, hummus and miso sesame dressing was a visual and flavoursome delight. For dessert, we shared the poached pear in sweet red wine sauce with freeze-dried raspberries, opting for the refreshing lemon sorbet instead of mascarpone. Perfect on a sweltering 38-degree day.
This captivating bar offers an extensive list of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks; I chose a refreshing ginger beer and my plus-one a fruity mocktail, followed by a brewed chai.
Harry’s on Green Lane is a cool oasis for lunch or dinner any season. Open for lunch seven days from 12pm (weekend sittings 12pm and 2pm), and for dinner Friday and Saturdays from 6pm. Bookings essential.
Harry’s on Green Lane, 17 Banyette Street, Bowral NSW
T: 02 4862 2883
Paste Australia
Paste Australia is a hatted restaurant in Mittagong, owned by renowned Chef Bee Satongun, awarded Asias’s Best Female Chef by World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and owner of Thailand’s Micheline-starred culinary icon, Paste Bangkok, as well as Paste Laos. Aussies are fortunate Bee’s husband hails from Mittagong, the couple deciding to return here and reopen a Thai restaurant in town in 2020 after seven years in Thailand.
This contemporary Thai restaurant has a sleek, minimalist décor and comfortable dining chairs (which recline), allowing the food to take centre stage, deservedly so.
Chef Bee’s cuisine is based on traditional Thai dishes that she has “revived” by changing some techniques and elements to incorporate fresh seasonal produce and please local palates.
Our gracious server, Honey, suggested we try the set menu for two that included six dishes and jasmine rice for $105 per person – a brilliant suggestion and excellent value for such premium cuisine.
The first entree of Hor Mok seafood souffle with deep sea halibut was delicate and silky smooth; the second of roasted duck with nutmeg, curry paste and coriander served on a house-made rice cracker was bursting with flavour and texture. Sublime.
For mains, you must try Chef Bee’s signature dish from Paste Bangkok – the sensational Moreton Bay bug and pomelo salad with betel leaves, Thai chilli and herb sauce. The flavour combination is exquisite (this dish alone explains the chef’s hats and Michelin stars bestowed upon the award-winning restaurateur).
Next, the Royal Thai Jeen Jaun chicken curry with fresh pineapple was delicious and tender, and the stir-fried Morning glory (leafy greens) with soybean paste, garlic and chilli tasted light and fresh.
Dessert of the day was a silky smoked coconut noodle with palm sugar sabayon over a bed of dried pineapple and lemon basil seed – a delightful balance of sweetness, creaminess and crunch.
We paired our banquet with local Rieslings, chosen from a comprehensive wine list.
Open Thursday to Monday (times vary) for dine in and takeaway (5.30-8.30pm). Worth the drive from Canberra just to dine here.
Paste Australia, 105 Main Street, Mittagong NSW
T: 02 4872 2277
Where we visited
Bradman Museum
The hometown of Sir Donald Bradman during his formative adolescent years, Bowral pays homage to the Australian cricket icon with the Bradman Museum and International Cricket Hall of Fame, which borders the heritage-listed Bradman Oval. Administered by The Bradman Foundation, the Museum is the jewel in the crown of Bowral treasures, attracting visitors from near and far, especially cricket fans from the Indian Subcontinent. Even if you’re not a cricket tragic, this is a fascinating place to while away an hour or a day.
Guided group tours are available by prior arrangement, and our guide was the charismatic and knowledgeable Corydon Unwin, of the Foundation’s curatorial services. Because the layout, signage, displays and interactive elements are so excellent, you can confidently journey through the Museum at your own pace without a guide, exploring the evolution of the game and some of its greatest exponents, and be captivated by whatever takes your fancy. The gallery on women’s cricket is in the process of being expanded. My favourites included Bradman’s first bat, the collection of treasured Baggy Greens on display, and the outlandish advertising and uniforms associated with Kerrie Packer’s World Series Cricket in the 1970s that changed the cricket landscape forever. I was bowled over by the quality and variety of the exhibits.
Be sure to check out the statue of Bradman and the Sir Donald Bradman roses in the gardens, and see the picturesque oval where the legend’s cricketing career took off. You might even catch some cricketers at play. Howzat!
Entry fees apply, which go towards maintenance of the Museum and the collection. Apart from a couple of paid employees, the facilities are overseen by a board and maintained by a team of dedicated volunteers.
Open 7 days 9am-4pm. Closed Good Friday and Christmas Day.
Bradman Museum and ICC Hall of Fame, St Jude Street, Bowral NSW
Harper’s Mansion
Prominently positioned on a hill overlooking the historic village of Berrima is Harper’s Mansion, a National Trust property set in delightful gardens. Both the lovingly restored home and expansive gardens, which boasts one of Australia’s largest hedge mazes (planted in 1999), are maintained and managed by a dedicated army of around 20 volunteers.
Now a prized example of an early colonial Georgian country house, the two-storey mansion was built of locally sourced red clay bricks and sandstone in 1834 by James Harper. The son of convicts, Harper was a police officer at Bong Bong, who went on to develop a thriving inn at Berrima. As his wealth grew, he bought acreage overlooking the village on which to build an impressive family home for his wife and children, three of whom died young. Just 11 years after his dream house was built, Harper died in 1845 with financial difficulties.
Over the decades, the house has been through various iterations, at one time owned by the Catholic Church (1853-1900) and used as a presbytery for the local priests, or accommodation for nuns. It was passed on to the National Trust in 1978 and restored after decades of use and neglect.
Self-guided tours are the norm, allowing you to explore the home and gardens at your own pace, and volunteers are on hand to answer questions; tours can be arranged for groups (garden tours are especially popular with gardening groups). We were guided by Nick from the National Trust and local volunteer, Richard, who generously shared their time and their considerable knowledge with us.
They explained the decision was made to furnish the home mostly in the Georgian period, the era during which it was constructed, though there are nods to its Catholic period (including paintwork on the ceiling of the downstairs parlour) and a prayer room upstairs. From the window in the nursery upstairs, the foundations of the kitchen outbuilding are visible.
To explore a taste of 1840’s homelife and architecture, a delightful Southern Highlands country garden, or a challenging hedge maze (especially popular with families), Harper’s Mansion is well worth a visit.
Entry fees apply (free for National Trust members); tickets available at the door or pre-purchase online to secure your spot.
Open weekends 11am-3pm; closed 18 December–13 January.
Harper’s Mansion, 9 Wilkinson St, Berrima NSW
T: 0421 924 333
W: nationaltrust.org.au/places/harpers-mansion/
Joadja Estate
Just a short drive (8km) from Harper’s Mansion is Joadja Estate, the region’s oldest commercial winery, founded in 1983. Our gracious host, Matthew, and his wife have owned the vineyard for over seven years. Here, they grow the original five varietals – Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec.
Sit indoors in the charming cellar door or outdoors under shady trees with views across the vineyards, as Matthew leads you through a complimentary wine tasting (an increasingly rare experience post-pandemic), explaining each variety. Our favourite drops included the 2022 Summer Rosé and 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – and it’s well worth trying the vineyard’s lip-smacking signature boysenberry liqueur.
The venue also hosts live music; on Saturday afternoons (1-4pm) in summer you can enjoy free music by talented musicians while relaxing over a glass of wine and wood-fired pizzas.
On Sunday afternoons prior to a Monday public holiday, free Music in the Vines sessions (1-4pm) feature live acts that attract loads of locals and visitors. (No BYO events on site.)
Joadja Estate, 110 Joadja Road, Berrima NSW
T: 02 4878 5236
CW editor Julie Samaras visited Bowral as a guest of Park Proxi Gibraltar Bowral.
