Tucked away in a residential village in Harrison is the studio of one of the few Indigenous handmade manufacturing jewellers in the country.
Thomas Coen, 29, moved to Canberra for love. However, his story starts long before then, on a small Aboriginal community not too far out of Darwin.
โThe population was about 50 to 70 people. Dad was the hunter-gatherer of the community; the amount of times weโd get neighbours, other countrymen, coming to us for a bag of fish that Dad had caught, or a kilo of prawns that he and I had dragged across long beaches โฆ
โHeโs a fisherman to this day. It says so on my birth certificate. Fatherโs occupation: fisherman,โ smiled Thomas.
โIt was carefree, living in the community. Dad and I have a lot of memories on that land, even though we left by the time I was seven.
โIt wasnโt easy integrating into city society. It wasnโt easy trying to get an education, and it wasnโt easy financially. Dad loved really hard and grew me up in what he thought was the best way he could possibly provide.โ
The first sparks of curiosity about jewellery caught when Thomas was nine.
โI was always interested in a jewellery collection that my grandmother had. It was her prized possession. It was old, it was battered, it needed repairs, now that I look back.
โBut at the time, I saw the minor details that, if you donโt look hard enough, youโll never see, but someone took the time to do it.
โThere was a piece that my grandfather gave her when they were courting. A special piece that she won at bingo, a little golden nugget on the end of a pendant. She really loved that one, because she loved her bingo,โ he smiled.
โShe was a Christian woman. She had a nice cross that she would hold every night and pray for us grandkids. I thought that was beautiful; that she cared so much and that she held a piece when she thought about us.โ
Sparks wouldnโt grow into passion until years later, when a jeweller, also Thomasโs football coach, offered the opportunity to do work experience at his shop, to which 16-year-old Thomas turned up โready to sit down, hang out, and chatโ.
โBut he had prepared a bit of work for me. He got me to make up a plain wedding band and cut out a pendant of my football club mascot. I managed to finish in a couple days, and he was shocked.
โHe said, โThatโs all I had for you for the week. You picked up heat control with the torch very quickly.โ And I said, โDo I go home?โโ
Thomas smiled, โBut I enjoyed that week by the end of it.โ Over school holidays, weekends, and after school, Thomas continued to work at the shop where his passion for jewellery grew.
โBefore I knew it, I was finishing school, and he asked me, โwhat do you want to do with yourself?โ
โI didnโt know. I thought maybe Iโd join the police, or NTFL (Northern Territory Football League) in a traineeship. He lined me up with a two-week trial down in Adelaide with Mark McAskillโs, a wholesaling manufacturer which was, at the time, the biggest manufacturing jewellers in the Southern Hemisphere.โ
Thomas excelled in Adelaide, and the trial became his entry point to a complicated business to break into. โItโs a huge trust trade. And on top of that, itโs an art form โฆ Iโve come to realise this trade is very cliquey. Very expensive to start, and very expensive to run, as one of the few trades where the materials completely outweigh the expenses of labour.โ
Thomas attributes these as some of the reasons why First Nations people struggle to break into the industry. โI believe we have so much potential in this trade. Between our art, how we work with our hands, our different ideas.โ
His father, a proud Jawoyn and Kala Lagaw Ya man, is his greatest inspiration.
โHe is a man of brilliant craft. Heโs got a small bit of land two hours out of Darwin that he calls his own. He made a shack out of old pieces of corrugated iron, close to a beach where he has his fish trap that he made of eight-foot trees and chicken wire, running along to direct the fish into the trap.
โFor him, itโs his culture. Itโs the family business. Itโs the way to give back and provide, and it had always provided for us, it provided for our community.
โI love the idea of telling a story with my pieces, with a concept of country in mind, of heritage in mind, tying me back to family while taking it in my own direction,โ said Thomas.
His greatest challenge, building his business off his own back, took 100-hour weeks, and no small amount of sacrifice โ including making a two-day trip to collect a workbench from a closed-down jewellery school, with his then-girlfriend, Renee.
โI looked on forums, did the whole Gumtree research, thereโs not much in the trade when it comes to second-hand jewellery equipment.โ
The couple, who married last April, say that the bench was where it all began, with an intimate studio building up around it, piece by piece.
โI moved here for love, and it was the best thing Iโve ever done. My very new partner was pursuing her career and had found a job opportunity in Canberra. We were both concerned about if I could make the move. I said, โIf you love the job, Iโll move with youโ.โ
To no surprise, Reneeโs ring is one of a kind. โI knew she loved sunflowers. It gave me the idea to go with an intense yellow diamond. The fact behind a fancy-coloured diamond is that they are mined one in every 10,000. It related so much to how I feel about her.โ
To date, in-the-know Canberrans have been steadily impressed with the uniqueness behind each of Thomasโs pieces.
โIn five years, I want to have a beautiful shopfront. Full of Indigenous high-end jewellery.
โOne day, I hope to have huge one-off designer pieces to enter in awards, that I could do in collaboration with rural Indigenous communities, with the elders. With their permission, I want to create pieces that tell their stories.โ
To find out more, visit thomascoenjewellery.com.au
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