Sydney’s only three hours up the Hume Highway from Canberra or a quick flight in a Dash-8 – and the Emerald City offers so much to see and do, it’s truly worth the trip. With a plethora of new hotels, eateries, exhibitions and experiences on offer, Sydney invites you to #feelnew this summer.

CW Editor Julie Samaras recently spent four supercharged days in Sydney as a guest of Destination NSW with three groups of journalists from NSW, interstate and overseas on various itineraries. From the height of luxury to activities that are affordable or free, here’s what our group got up to.

Where we stayed

Kimpton Margot Sydney with 172 rooms and suites is a luxurious five-star hotel right in the heart of the city, just a five-minute walk from Sydney Town Hall. Enter the breathtaking foyer of this historic 1930s building and marvel at the beautifully restored Art Deco features that sit comfortably alongside contemporary, eclectic style. The lobby is also home to a charming café, chic bar, and the hotel’s flagship restaurant, Luke’s Kitchen, helmed by renowned Australian chef, Luke Mangan.

When it’s time to rest, take refuge in your spacious room, complete with plush bedding, all the mod cons, and extra touches, like designer bathrobes, luxury toiletries and gourmet mini bar options.

Feeling fit? Try the rooftop lap pool, access the 24-hour fitness centre or yoga room in the basement, or take one of the hotel’s Lekker bikes out for a spin – complete with picnic basket and complementary helmet, bike lock and map.

Don’t be surprised if you meet a pampered pooch in the lifts. This hotel is pet friendly; no extra fees apply.

339 Pitt St, Sydney NSW; kimptonmargotsydney.com

Where we ate

Sean’s Panorama: Across the road from the North Bondi Surf Life Saving Club, this Eastern Beaches dining institution has been offering great food and stunning waterfront views since 1993. The charming atmosphere beckons you to relax and enjoy the seaside vibes, friendly service and great food. We selected from the varied three-course daily menu offering three choices per course. Being by the sea, I opted for plump prawns for entrée, fresh king fish and spring vegetables in brodo for mains, and a delicate goat’s milk ice-cream with chocolate biscuit spoon and honey drizzle for dessert.

270 Campbell Parade, North Bondi; 9365 4924; seansbondi.com

Bert’s Bistro: If you’re after more than a meat pie or hotdog when rocking up to see your favourite artist or team perform at Allianz Stadium, you’ll find premium fare on site at Bert’s Bistro, the convenient stadium sibling of the renowned Bert’s Bar & Brasserie at Newport. We enjoyed a gourmet dinner before walking just a few paces to our outdoor seats at Bruno Mars’ sold-out Friday night concert. Featuring ‘elevated, coastal European stylings’ in a stadium setting, the menu includes shareable entrees, and mains ranging from a hearty burger and chips to grilled lobster in garlic butter, or Wagyu sirloin bearnaise. We ran out of time to taste the dessert menu, however, the wine list was well curated.

Bert’s Bistro at Allianz Stadium, 40 Driver Avenue, Moore Park; merivale.com/stadiums/allianz-stadium/

Museum of Contemporary Art Café: If you fancy a light or hearty breakfast with a side of Opera House and Harbour Bridge views, it’s hard to beat the MCA café. The avo on toast was tasty and nourishing, and my soy cappuccino was smooth; the French toast with maple syrup and caramelised banana looked scrumptious.

140 George Street, The Rocks; 9245 2452; mca.com.au

Ester: In an unassuming building in a quiet backstreet of Chippendale, you’ll find Ester Restaurant & Bar serving exciting contemporary Australian cuisine in a confidently cool space. We popped in for snacks and drinks on a Sunday afternoon and were delighted with our choices, especially the cured coral trout with mandarin kosho, the pickled cucumber with macadamia and braised kombu, and potato bread with trout roe, dashi and kefir cream. The tantalising combinations of flavours and textures are superbly balanced and had my taste buds dancing for joy. The Ester kombucha brewed onsite was my drink of choice; fellow travellers thoroughly enjoyed the house gin distilled nearby.  Highly recommended.

46-52 Meagher St, Chippendale; 8068 8279; ester-restaurant.com.au

Silks: Delivers traditional Cantonese cuisine in opulent and elegant surroundings, with views over Sydney Harbour, which was twinkling on the star-spangled night we dined here. Our capable and charming Destination NSW host, Jenna Whyte, ordered an array of dishes from the extensive menu, including entrees of fresh shucked oysters with salmon roe and cucumber chardonnay vinegar, and truffle lobster and vegetarian spring rolls, followed by stir-fried seasonal vegetables, fried rice, stir-fried Queensland king prawns and scallops in black garlic, mao tai sauce, plus a Silks specialty – layered creamy egg white with lobster meat and black truffle oil.  

For dessert, we shared the mango pudding and compressed watermelon with mango pearls and coconut sago, battered banana fritters with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce and sliced pineapple, and sesame salted egg yolk lava ball with sesame sponge. Well chosen.

The drinks menu is extensive and includes plenty of wine options by the glass.

Crown Sydney, Level 3/1 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo; 8871 7171; crownhotels.com.au/sydney/restaurants-bars/silks

Fish Butchery Waterloo: Recently named on a global list of The Best Chef Awards 2022 top 100, we were privileged to be hosted by noted chef Josh Niland at Fish Butchery Waterloo, which produces fish for his renowned eateries, Saint Peter and Charcoal Fish. Personable and passionate, the father of four shared his life journey from overcoming childhood cancer to becoming a chef, schooled by some of the top names in the business, before going out on his own. Facing a $4,000 seafood bill on day one, he was determined to minimise waste and extract the most from each fish – in terms of content and flavour. Committed to sustainability, Niland’s head-to-tail philosophy sees his fish butchery utilise around 95 per cent of each fish he purchases, compared to the industry average of 50 per cent. For example, bones are used in soups, and offal in charcuterie, patties and sausages. Hence Niland favours the term fish butchery over fish monger.

After an astonishing fish charcuterie plate, we were served his signature Yellowfin Tuna cheeseburger packed with flavour and the crispiest hot chips. These tasty burgers and more are on the menu at Fish Butchery Waterloo and Paddington, and Charcoal Fish in Rose Bay. Check the website for open times.

Want dessert? True to Niland’s minimal waste attitude, he stocks Ciccone & Sons’ Murray cod fat caramel Stracciatella gelato on a stick – rich and delicious.

965 Bourke Street, Waterloo; 8960 0903; fishbutchery.com.au

Nobu: Blending traditional and modern Japanese dishes using delicious and fresh local produce, world-renowned Nobu now occupies prime position on level 2 of Crown Sydney. Our table of 20+ diners relished an array of outstanding dishes ordered by our Destination NSW hosts. Japanese flavours at their finest.

Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo; 8871 7171; noburestaurants.com

What we did

Sydney WorldPride 2023 preview: Over lunch at Sean’s Panorama, CEO of Sydney WorldPride, Kate Wickett provided a comprehensive overview of this mega festival that will coincide with Mardi Gras in February and features all the usual Mardi Gras favourites plus a huge rainbow of extra events, great and small. Australia’s own pop princess Kylie Minogue will headline Live and Proud: Sydney WorldPride opening concert in Sydney on 24 February 2023. Some events are already sold out or selling fast.

Check sydneyworldpride.com for the program.

Sydney Cricket Ground and Allianz Stadium: We were treated to a guided tour of the historic SCG (originally opened in 1886), including onto the hallowed field, access to the Australia men’s and visitors changerooms, which had our cricket tragics in ecstasy, and the MA Noble Media Centre.

Bruno Mars at Allianz Stadium: Who better to celebrate the reopening of Sydney’s state-of-the-art sport and entertainment venue than 14-time Grammy award winner and global superstar, Bruno Mars. We joined 40,000 fans on the first of his two-night sold-out tour to witness this master entertainer at work and experience “24 karat magic in the air”. That’s what I like.

40 Driver Avenue, Moore Park. To see what’s on, visit allianz.com.au/stadium

Everest Race Day: After hair and makeup styling at the Kimpton Margot Sydney Hotel, I saddled up into my new racewear for a day spent relaxing in the luxurious Moet & Chandon Theatre of the Horse marquee at Everest Race Day at Royal Randwick Racecourse. Randwick was pumping with 40,000 racegoers dressed in fashions ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous on this sparkling spring day. Dress codes apply for ladies and gentlemen in certain locations, and everyone in our marquee was well behaved, win or lose, and politely availed ourselves to the bottomless champagne and cocktails, and endless rounds of delectable hors d’oeuvres. Don’t mind if I do.

If you enjoy the sport of kings, visit australianturfclub.com.au to view Sydney’s spring racing program.

Museum of Contemporary Art: Right on the waterfront in the historic Rocks precincts, MCA offers an exciting program this summer, including its major exhibition by internationally renowned artist Do Ho Suh, featuring some of his awesome large-scale sculptures and architectural installations. Also on the agenda is Primavera 2022: Young Australian Artists showcasing the work of diverse artists aged 35 and under, which promises to provoke thought and stir emotions. That’s just a taste of what’s on offer. Free entry (some events ticketed; some require bookings); check the website for the full program and to plan your visit.

140 George Street, The Rocks; mca.com.au

Lifestyle Charters: On the waterfront across from the MCA, we boarded the sleek Enigma, a superbly appointed 64-ft motor yacht, for a luxury cruise around Sydney Harbour, which was at its finest on this sparkling spring day. We motored up past Barangaroo into Darling Harbour and back under the bridge to Rose Bay, where we moored while partaking of a fresh and delicious seasonal lunch and watching people on the water and shore, before cruising past remarkable harbourside homes and hidden beaches on our way back to Circular Quay. A brilliant way to experience Sydney Harbour like a celebrity for a few hours.

To find out more about Lifestyle Charters, call David on 0402 557 453 or visit lifestylecharters.com.au

Local Sauce Tours: Not far from Sydney CBD is the cool little suburb of Chippendale (not to be confused with Chippendales)  – a haven of art galleries, design studios, street art, eateries and pubs. We were guided on a cultural walking tour by the affable and knowledgeable Justin, who met us outside the Old Clare Hotel, and led us through colourful Spice Alley, teeming with hole-in-the-wall Asian eateries, past the historic Mortuary railway station, high-rise and parklands boasting stunning public art, the famed White Rabbit Gallery, and down quaint side streets adorned with striking murals, to the Harrington Street Gallery (17 Meagher St). Believed to be Australia’s longest continuously running artists’ cooperative gallery, it turns 50 next year and was hosting a beautiful exhibition of pieces by its founder, John Ogburn, when we visited in October. Next up is the annual Summer Show on 1-27 November. Open Tuesday-Sunday. Closed during December and January.

To see where Local Sauce Tours can take you, call Justin on 0490 362 896 or visit localsaucetours.com.au

Rose Bay Aquatic Hire: We set off for an early morning Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP) at Rose Bay with the affable and capable Tommy Woodruff, who also moonlights as a Bondi lifeguard. It was my first ever SUP, and with Tommy’s guidance and some beginner’s luck, I managed to stay on board for the duration of our paddle around the bay. It’s an up-close, affordable – and for some, immersive – way to explore Sydney Harbour. One to tick off my bucket list, if I had one. Great fun! Highly recommended.

Vickery Avenue, Rose Bay; call Tommy on 0416 239 543; rosebayaquatichire.com

Powerhouse Museum: There’s so much to see and do at the Powerhouse Museum in Ultimo, it truly offers something for everyone. The Museum’s iconic Catalina flying boat has a new exhibition; 100 Climate Conversations, which began in March, is continuing; Charkha and Kargha showcases rare and beautiful Indian textiles from the Powerhouse Collection; while freshly opened on 27 October is Unpopular, a major exhibition featuring never-before-seen material exploring the global rise of the alternative music scene, including cornerstone bands such as Nirvana, Beastie Boys, Sonic Youth and Foo Fighters. One for lovers of Australian fashion is the upcoming retrospective of Carla Zampatti’s 50-year career. On display are fashion creations from 1965 to her tragic passing in 2021, including a gown worn by Crown Princess Mary of Denmark. Opens 24 November.

Free entry, no bookings required.

500 Harris Street, Ultimo; www.maas.museum/powerhouse-museum

Julie Samaras stayed in Sydney as a guest of Destination NSW. For more information, visit www.sydney.com