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Friday, April 26, 2024

Dining review: History, culture, and mighty good food at Lakeside Gurkhas

There’s a rumbling on the Kingston Foreshore. Lakeside Gurkhas has joined the dockside dining precinct, offering authentic Nepalese cuisine and lessons in the land it hails from.

A welcome breath of fresh air for 33 Eastlake Parade, Lakeside Gurkhas’ menu is a labour of love, and love of country. 

Not only will you find delicacies from all three regions of Nepal – from the Himalayas, to the central hilly regions, to the planes of Terai – you will also find a hint of British influence, particularly in their popular weekend breakfasts.

This isn’t just to cater to the English palate, but to help bring the history of the mighty Gurkhas to Canberra.

Gorkhas is the name of the cultural epicentre of Nepal, “The place where everything started,” explains restaurant managers, Nischal and Nina.

250 years ago, several countries, all bearing different climates and cuisines, were brought together to form the Kingdom of Nepal. At Lakeside Gurkhas, the traditional seating area where large groups can share in those cuisines today, bears the same name.

Gurkhas, on the other hand, are the Nepalese warriors who inspired General Sam ‘The Brave’ Manekshaw’s quote: “If a man says he is not afraid of dying, he is either lying or is a Gurkha.”

Despite Gurkhas fighting alongside the Anzacs in the Gallipoli campaign, few Australians know of their existence, says Nischal.

“When the East India Company sought to enter Nepal, the Nepalese soldiers fought their canons and guns with traditional knives, called Khukuri.

“The British were so impressed by the warrior spirit of the Gurkhas that they wanted them in their military … Today, there’s a Gurkha regiment in both the Indian and British armies.”

26 Victoria Crosses have been awarded to Gurkha soldiers and British officers in Gurkha regiments to date.

The second half of the Lakeside Gurkhas name refers not only to the picturesque Foreshore, but to one of the most famous tourist destinations in Nepal. “There’s a place called Lakeside in Pokhara and it’s heaven on earth,” says Nischal.

The Twakka Sandheko Makai – crispy battered corn mixed with Nepalese spices – is a must-try for vegetarian and gluten-free diners.

However, it’s the momos that will have me coming back. Nepalese momos are similar to dumplings in shape but are packed with more flavour.

Available in vegetarian paneer, chicken, and buffalo, the Dirty Chilli Momos in particular are bursting with flavour and will warm you up from the inside out.

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